This season Paris Fashion Week surprised us all with its lack of creativity, but there were a few designers to show up with their game faces on and showcased the best of what Spring/Summer 2017 had to offer. Each one left a particular impression on us, and that’s even after the 9-day “week” had finished. We take a look back of those special few with a list of our favourite collections from Paris Fashion Week SS17.
A photo posted by SIMON PORTE JACQUEMUS (@jacquemus) on
Simon Portes’ Jacquemus’ Spring/Summer 2017 was easily the breakout show from day one with his exploration of the South of France through a dramatically oversized and distorted range of springtime silhouettes. The straw sunhats with extra-large brims were easily the showstoppers here, but his play on menswear basics – the jacket, pant, and shirt – gave all the dimension and technique you could ever ask for. There’s a reason this designer has become the darling of the Paris fashion scene – and it’s about time we all jump on board.
Hands down the king of geometric patterns, Issey Miyake isn’t a name known to follow trends or industry norms – and that’s exactly why it’s so easy to love the label now under the creative direction of Yoshiyuki Miyamae. Miyamae’s seasonal forms appeared as signature geometric patterns on a spacious catwalk, where he also revealed the season’s new technique – the Cut & Stick. It’s exactly what it sounds like, where geometric cutouts of stiff fabrics would be fused with flowing jersey for a series of unique and colourful looks that made up a majority of this refreshing collection.
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There was a lot of buzz surrounding Johanna Senyk’s label Wanda Nylon this season; in July, she won the illustrious ANDAM award, and her SS17 collection was her first collection to be shown since wining the competition. There was no telling what would we see on the catwalk, but we were more than happy to see not much had changed. Her particular brand of nonconformity found its way through the season as garments appeared true to her underground aesthetics, this time styled with motorcycle booties and several variations of her latest experimental materials – woven metal mesh and the suede substitute Alcantara took turns as this season’s must-have tailored trenches.
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This week was all about Haider Ackermann. Coinciding with the news of his appointment as the new creative director for Berluti, the LVMH-owned menswear label, his spring collection captivated a relatively weary audience with a change in pace from past collections. This season he filled the catwalk with dramatic options and spiky haired models – each marching slowly to the tune of deep bass and the hum of wind machines while in decked wafting silk and ribbons in bright tropical colours. But, for a designer who is known for his draping and wrapping, it was a complete 180 when he highlighted his strength in tailoring with high-waist fitted pants and jackets with its midriff-baring straps.
A photo posted by Veronique Branquinho (@veroniquebranquinho) on
Veronique Branquinho honed her homespun aesthetics with an 18th century-inspired collection; one that full of references to the interiors of old country houses and its faded floral wallpaper. The lineup included traditional handicraft techniques such as needlepoint, tapestry, and cross-stitch across a wearable range of long shirt dresses and cut-out dresses, but it was the way she balanced pleats and ruffles that made her one of our favourites. During a week where it seemed almost every designer had their own variation on the ruffles, hers were proportionate and practical without the risk of being redundant. While the muted colour palette might have become a bit monotonous toward the end of the show, her bomber jackets and sweatshirts were an instant hit, with several sporting tapestry details that felt entirely referential yet wearable and modern.
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